Being able to move the ball a little left or right lets you aim away from trouble and attack more pins. The physics is the same as for a slice or a hook; the difference is control.
The rule behind the curve
For a right-handed player:
- a draw starts right of the target and curves back left; the face is closed to the swing path but open to the target;
- a fade starts left and curves right; the face is open to the path but closed to the target.
The ball starts roughly where the face points and curves away from the path. Left-handers simply reverse everything.
Setting up for a draw
- Aim your feet and body a little right of the target.
- Point the clubface at the target, which closes it relative to your body line.
- Swing along your body line, from the inside.
A slightly stronger grip helps too. Make your normal swing; the setup does the work.
Setting up for a fade
Do the opposite: body aimed slightly left, face at the target, swing along your body line. Many players find the fade more reliable under pressure because it lands softer and rolls less.
Practice with a gate
Place two tees or alignment sticks to form a gate a few feet in front of the ball, offset to the right for a draw or to the left for a fade. Your job is to start the ball through the gate and watch it curve back. Start with small curves and half swings before full shots.
When to use each one
- Fade it toward a pin tucked on the right, or when the trouble is on the left.
- Draw it into a right-to-left wind or a dogleg left for extra roll.
- In wind, a controlled fade into a left-to-right breeze flies straight; see playing in the wind.
If your current shot is a big slice, fix that first with the steps in how to stop slicing. Shot shaping is a refinement, not a rescue.
